What is it about Southern California that makes life here so fabulous? Why, our ocean and climate, of course! Our warm and dry summers, tempered by cool ocean breezes, and our cool and rainy winters, punctuated by hot Santa Ana winds, create a perfect combination of conditions for just about any lifestyle you choose. Love the outdoors? California offers hiking, camping, biking, skateboarding, rollerblading, surfing, skimboarding, bodyboarding, swimming, snow skiing, snowboarding, windsurfing, kiteboarding, wakeboarding, water skiing, sailing, yachting, jet skiing, and just about any other kind of outdoor recreation you can think of. Prefer milder forms of recreation? Southern California’s climate is ideal for convertibles, motor cycles, scooters, outdoor malls, golf courses, theme parks, boardwalks, piers, fishing, arboretums, outdoor concerts, outdoor aquariums, and even museums that host outdoor exhibits. When you think about it, Southern California’s climate is the #1 attraction on which all other attractions of our Southern California lifestyle depend.
But what if Southern California’s ocean and climate were different? What if some global force caused it to change? How would we deal with a Southern California that was hot and humid in the summer and downright Bladerunner-like with continuous rains in the winter? What if Southern California was baked bone dry like a desert? What if sea level rose by several feet? Would our lifestyle survive? Would we survive?
It’s not very pleasant to think about but it could happen. In a span of 40-50 years, life in Southern California may be much different than anything we have ever known. Many of the things that make life here so fabulous could make life here downright miserable. Warmer summers and drier winters are a recipe for drought. Rising nighttime temperatures may wreck havoc on crops, especially grapes, which depend on cool nights for maximum productivity. Lack of snow means no snow sports. Hot summers mean less pleasant mountain retreats, wicked summer hiking and camping, and just plain less pleasant anything outdoors. More frequent and intense Santa Ana winds may favor the sailing crowds, but a stiff offshore breeze makes it tough to return to port or the beach. And air quality suffers miserably during Santa Anas. Warmer air will bring invasions of insects that cause damage to crops and trees. Warmer ocean temperatures have already brought swarms of highly aggressive jumbo squid that threaten local fisheries and perhaps, even divers and swimmers. Warmer ocean temperatures and melting glaciers have begun an inexorable rise in sea level, which threatens coastal structures and homes. Bigger waves might be a boon for surfers but they could undermine the fabric of a billion-dollar coastal economy as beaches disappear and shoreside resorts plunge into the sea. The near-term outlook for Southern California is one of more intense and more frequent episodes of severe weather—by air and by sea.
To make yourself ready for the coming climate change (and yes, it is coming, there is no doubt of that!), it’s useful (if not essential) to have some understanding of what it is that makes Southern California’s ocean and climate tick. Underlying the basic climate patterns that gild our region are the close interactions between the ocean and the atmosphere, not just locally but globally. The world ocean and Earth’s atmosphere are intimately connected and it’s that connection that generates the pleasant climate to which we have grown accustomed. These interactions govern most of the world’s climate, affecting where and how we live, what we eat, and what we do for fun and recreation.
Having a basic knowledge of the world ocean and Earth’s atmosphere and how the climate of our regional ocean and atmosphere fuel a trillion-dollar state economy can help you make intelligent choices in your career and life. For example, building a ski lodge at Big Bear in a future climate where snow appears increasingly rare might be a bad investment. On the other hand, pursuing a career in surf merchandise or drought-tolerant landscaping might reap greater benefits in a future climate where big waves and lack of rainfall are increasingly common. Knowledge of the ocean and atmosphere has practical benefits. It can help you decide where to live and raise a family. It can help you choose the best times and places to take vacations. It can even save you money as you equip your home with water-saving and energy-saving technologies. Perhaps you can think of some examples of how knowledge of the ocean and atmosphere might affect your career and life. (You will be given an opportunity to do this in our first homework assignment.)
Let’s begin with a review of the good, the bad, and the ugly of California’s Golden Life. Our climate and ocean generate vast riches, supporting a healthy local, regional, and global economy. At the same time, our climate and ocean are in danger of being loved to death. Smog, airborne particles, and a myriad of other atmospheric pollutants threaten the air we breathe. Sustained drought, more frequent extreme winds, and rising air temperatures loom in the near future. In our local waters. overfishing, habitat destruction, eutrophication, increases in harmful algae and bacteria, chemical pollutants, invasive species, marine debris, and a number of other human impacts have clobbered marine ecosystems. Though some improvements have been made, our air and ocean remain threatened and vulnerable to disastrous decline. Fortunately, people who live here are well aware of the importance of air and water quality to our lives and careers. A survey of Orange County residents in 2005 found widespread support (>80%) for efforts to protect water quality and other important natural resources, even if such efforts required increases in taxes or fees (Fairbank, Metz, and O’Shaughnessy, 2005).
Southern California’s Coastal Resources
If you’ve lived in California your whole life, you may not appreciate the riches that abound in the Golden State. To a non-native Californian (like myself), California’s marvelous bounty becomes apparent from the moment you step out of baggage claim. The cool ocean breeze that wafts over LAX (and John Wayne airport, too) lures the visitor straight to the beach. Seriously, it’s the first place most visitors want to visit and the experience does not disappoint! (Admittedly, I’m an oceanographer, so I may be a bit biased.) Standing on the edge of the mighty Pacific at Dockweiler State Beach, you can see a parking lot of Winnebagos and campers; a parade of rollerbladers, bikers, and joggers; a carpet of sunbathers and multi-colored umbrellas; the antennae-like poles of fishermen on the jetties; the jagged lines of surfers bobbing in the waves; the angular slab of a giant supertanker unloading oil; the verdant cliffs of Palos Verdes; the checkered hills of Malibu; and the hazy shadows of Catalina Island set against the sun glint of the cool horizonless ocean. It’s a panoply of recreational and commercial enterprises spawned by the ocean.
No doubt native Californians share some of the enthusiasm of the first-time visitor or new resident. It’s just that once you live here a while, you learn to temper the theme-park-like giddiness that California inspires. “Look at that, a dog on a surfboard wearing sunglasses,” the newbie screams. “Yeah, it’s cool,” you remark, then pull your shades back over your eyes. You’re secure in your belief that California is the best place on Earth to live. After all, you probably work for a company that caters to tourists, who come here for the beaches and Disneyland and movie stars, in that order.
Directly or indirectly, your livelihood (or the livelihood of the person supporting you) depends on the ocean. Check this out: ocean-related industries employed nearly 700,000 people in 2000 and generated $1.15 trillion dollars, or 86% of the state’s total economic activity (Kildow and Colgan, 2005). California ranks first in employment and gross state product in US Ocean Economies. On top of that, California ranks in the top ten of the world’s economies (CIA World Factbook, 2007). So it’s safe to say that California has one of the largest ocean economies in the world.
Table 1.1 in Exploring the World Ocean (Chamberlin and Dickey, 2008) lists three major resources obtained from the world ocean: 1) Energy resources; 2) Mineral resources; and 3) Biological resources. Among ocean energy resources, California extracts petroleum and natural gas, and has plans to develop wave power and tide power. California ocean mineral resources include sea salts (and compounds derived from them), sand and gravel, oyster shells, which are used in cement, poultry feed, and soil conditioner, and small amounts of jade, found along the coast of Big Sur. Biological resources, also known as living resources, are the ones with which most of us are familiar. Fish and shellfish, including abalone, clams, oysters, mussels, urchins, sea cucumbers, lobsters, and crabs (the latter of which are not shell-bearing mollusks but are thrown in with shellfish anyway) are caught (and overcaught) all along the California coast. Aquaculture of abalone, oysters, and mussels represents a burgeoning industry. California even boasts a million-dollar kelp harvesting industry, the products of which are an integral part of many medicines, cosmetics, and food items, including toothpaste, shaving cream, and ice cream.
In their study, Kildow and Colgan (2000) examined the economic output of six major sectors of the California Ocean Economy: 1) coastal construction; 2) living resources; 3) offshore minerals; 4) ship building; 5) maritime transportation; and 6) tourism and recreation. By far, ocean-related tourism ranked (59%) highest, followed by transportation (33%; see Figures 2-6 and 2-2 from their paper). Ocean-related tourism and recreation experienced a surge in growth from 1990-2000, and made up 50% of the US ocean tourism and recreation economy. Ocean-related transportation declined from 1990 to 2000, owing to reductions in deep-sea freight and declines in production of search and navigation equipment. Nonetheless, the ports of Los Angeles, Long Beach, and Oakland account for 40% of the goods imported into the US. Perhaps more impressive is that the Ports of Long Beach and Los Angeles combined account for one of the largest volumes of container traffic in the world, eclipsed only by Hong Kong and Singapore.
Suffice it to say that intuitively and statistically, California’s ocean plays a major role in how we enjoy our lives and how we make a living. It’s the bread and butter of our California lifestyle.
Southern California’s Surf Culture
There is arguably an even greater role that the California ocean plays in the grand scheme of world affairs. Beyond the shores of California, indeed, across the globe, the California ocean and associated lifestyle tug at the heartstrings of people across the world. How else can you explain David Hasselhoff’s popularity in Europe? Why else do young boys and girls from Japan to Indonesia to Africa to South America dream of surfing the waves at Malibu? Why would Posh and Beck, enormously accomplished overseas, drag their family to Beverly Hills to start their life anew? Surf culture, dude!
California’s surf culture is legendary. Most historians cite the surf movie Gidget (1959) as one of beginning of the modern surf culture movement. Movies that followed, including Ride the Wild Surf (1964), The Endless Summer (1966), and Beach Blanket Bingo (1965), among many others, fueled an explosive growth of surfing and surf-related industries. Today, the surf industry generated $7.48 billion in 2006 (Surf Industry Manufacturer’s Association, 2007), not a bad sum for a sport most often associated with irresponsibility and drunkenness. For a good look at the history of big wave riding and some of the culture it inspired, check out Stacy Peralta’s Riding Giants (2004). Another great film on surfing and surf culture is Dana Brown’s Step Into Liquid (2003). A google search on “surf culture” and “surf culture industry” will turn up a variety of semi-decent descriptions.
California’s surf culture inspires a number of products and services, directly and indirectly. In addition to surfing gear (surfboards, wet suits, and board shorts), surf-related or surf-inspired gear includes men’s, women’s, and children’s apparel (shirts, pants, shoes, belts, etc), sunglasses, jewelry, watches, hats, and bags, among others. Surf tourism, packaged vacation trips to hot surf spots, is a burgeoning industry. Surf and surf-culture books, magazines, videos, and web sites continue to grow along with surfing art, music, and sculpture. And we shouldn’t forget that internet-based surf forecasting, a la Surfline, is becoming more popular with surfers and beach-goers. These commercial activities bring storefronts that serve as a magnet for tourists to beach cities and malls, having a positive effect on nearby eateries, coffee shops, newsstands, and other shops catering to tourists.
Like it or not, we live at ground zero for surf culture. Despite the perception of its carefree and chill attitude, the surf-inspired culture of California, and especially Southern California, has made its mark on the world big time.
Human Impacts on the California Ocean
I’d be remiss in my summary of Southern California’s Golden Ocean if I did not mention a few of the negative impacts that humans are having on our local waters. As you can imagine in a region with nearly 16 million people (LA County = 9.98M, OC = 3.0M, SD = 2.94M), the impacts on water quality, habitat resiliency, biodiversity, ecosystem functioning, and human health are quite significant. Nonetheless, because Californians place great value on our ocean resources, economically and aesthetically, we are, in some ways, ahead of other regions in our protection of the ocean.
Table 1.2 in Exploring the World Ocean (Chamberlin and Dickey, 2008) summarizes the major human impacts on the world ocean. Unfortunately, many of these problems apply to our local waters as well. Global warming threatens coastal homes and structures as sea level rise will inundate these structures and make them more susceptible to storm waves. Coastal development has severely diminished the extent of valuable coastal estuaries, which act as nurseries for fish and birds and which trap sediments and harmful chemicals and nutrients that otherwise spill into the ocean. Overfishing remains an enormous challenge for California policymakers as it pits the lives of fishermen, commercial and recreational, against the interests of ecologists, conservationists, tour operators (whale-watching boats, dive boats, eco-tourism operators), and people who simply enjoy unfettered nature. Runoff of toxic metals, oil, and debris, especially plastic and cigarette butts, threaten the lives of organisms directly and make our waters unhealthy for human activities. An especially difficult problem is the “greening” of our coastal waters as substances that promote algal growth—namely the nitrogen products in sewage and agricultural runoff—continue to run unabated into our waters. The excessive growth of algae and phytoplankton leads to an imbalance in marine ecosystems which, ironically, leads to oxygen depletion. Hypoxic waters plague many marinas, such as Dana Point, and parts of bays, including San Francisco Bay and Newport Back Bay. Historically, oil spills have been a major issue in our local waters, especially in Santa Barbara and Huntington Beach, the site of previous oil spills. While numerous technologies and safe practices have been adopted to prevent oil spills, the continued presence of oil tankers and oil platforms offshore remind us of the need for ever-constant vigilance to avoid a catastrophic spill. Finally, the release of non-native species, such as the seaweeds Caulerpa and Sargassum, fishes, such as non-native sea lamprey and gobies, and even non-vertebrate chordates, such as sea squirts, have negative impacts on structures (docks, boats, intake pipes) and ecosystems (displacing native species). The degree to which any of these impacts affect a specific location depends on the concentration and type of human activities, but few regions of California’s coastline, including the pristine Big Sur and Lost Coast regions, remain completely unscathed.
Despite the gloom and doom, there is hope for Southern California’s Golden Ocean. Recently, more than 110 square nautical miles of land and waters surrounding the Channel Islands were designated as no-take marine reserves within the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary, the largest in the continental US. (The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Marine Sanctuary is the largest in the US). Fishing in these waters is prohibited although recreational boating and diving are still allowed. No-take zones allow populations of marine organisms to survive and reproduce for their entire life span, the result of which is increased productivity and greater viability of larval and juvenile populations. At the same time, no-take zones export invertebrates and fishes to non-protected waters, thereby increasing their productivity and economic viability. Though contentious, the end result is a win-win situation for fishermen and conservationists alike. Ultimately, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) plans to designate more than 240 square nautical miles as marine reserve within the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary.
Of course, the most profound hope for the future of our local waters, the world ocean, and our planet rests with the young men and women who have devoted a part of their lives to learning more about the ocean and how we affect it. Yes, that’s YOU! Your willingness to engage in a semester-long study of oceanography and your efforts towards gaining the knowledge and understanding of the world ocean will play an important role in the healthy and vitality of our local waters. The knowledge and understanding that you share with your family and friends, your support of ocean conservation groups, your participation in ocean conservation events, your expressed opinion as a citizen, and your decisions as a voter will help insure the long-term protection and conservation of that which we love so much. As Meryl Streep says in one of my favorite documentaries, The Living Sea, “we can’t protect what we don’t understand.” So dive into your studies with a passion. Adopt the persona and attitude of an ocean advocate and scholar. Be all the oceanographer that you can be. Our world ocean and, indeed, our planet, needs you.